I keep delving further into the unusual history of this country. The key figure is Mr. Enver Hoxha, a decent enough looking guy born in 1908 (the same year as my father), who carried out one of the most bizarre defence projects ever.

He built over 700,000 cement bunkers all over the country as protection from foreign powers. No one was sure who the invaders might be - Italy? Greece?Yugoslavia? Russia? China? Aliens?

The bunkers were never used.

Thousands have been dismantled, others remain hidden, many still dot the landscape. Most were a “pillbox” style, a one-person dome of cement and steel.

Some have been turned into museums, art galleries, cafes, hostels, barns and change rooms at the beach.

There were large ones like this graffiti-covered structure where we stopped for a break during an exhausting climb on the Llogara Pass. A relic with a stunning view of the Adriatic Sea.

I have to mention that climb. I might still be walking if it wasn’t for the beautiful little e-bike battery that helped me along like a gentle hand on my back.

The switchbacks were long and steep, the temperature dropped and at one point we were in the clouds. From sea level to 3,369 ft elevation, my toughest climb ever.

A rest high above the sea and the girls are still smiling. The challenge up the mountain continued and then we enjoyed the other side - fast and fun, but controlled and careful. We’re all over 70, not 17.

Back to the bunkers.

Enver Hoxha’s paranoia project was a huge waste of resources in a very poor country.

I usually use only my own pictures, but the four below are from the internet.

During his 40 years as dictator Hoxha completely cut off Albania from the rest of the world. Citizens were shot if they tried to leave, foreigners were not allowed to enter. A bad guy.

He fought with the partisans during World War II to drive Mussolini’s fascists out of the country. A staunch Albanian nationalist. A good guy.

He made huge advances in literacy and health care, built the first railway in Albania and brought electricity to all rural areas. A good guy.

During his 40 years of authoritarian rule he curtailed human rights at every level, eliminating all dissent with a brutal network of secret police and informers, imprisoning or killing anyone who crossed him, and finally died, leaving his country impoverished and corrupt. Very bad.

A cab driver I spoke with was positive about the former leader and said he didn’t deserve all the bad publicity.

Dave was driving back to Western Europe from Greece in the 1970’s and remembers having to by-pass Albania. No chance of the dangerous young foreign travellers being allowed entry.

I have to mention the language. It’s impossible. Imagine a country that spells its own name “Shqipëria”. Albanian isn’t related to any other existing language.

The only word I managed to use haltingly was “faleminderit“, a mouthful that took a lot of concentration just to say “thank you”.

I loved travelling in Albania. Tourism is on the rise and it’s refreshing to see a country before the crowds and the prices increase.

If you want to see for yourself find a tour company like we did. CycleAlbania was wonderful for our group of 20.

Hotels, food, sightseeing, natural landscape, safety, e-bikes, bike routes, guides and climate were all 10/10 for my taste. Not to mention the fascinating history.

Next tour with the cycling grandmothers will be in Slovenia, May 2024.