If you’re curious about Albania here are a few more tidbits from my bike trip.
Tirana, the capital city I’d never heard of before, has some surprising architecture.
This Communist style mural from 1980 on the National Museum shows Albanians forever defending their country. In every era of their history someone was invading: Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Italian Fascists, German Nazis.
A giant pyramid seems a bit out of place in the middle of the city. It was built to honour the bizarre former dictator, Enver Hoxha, who ruled the country like a paranoid despot from 1944 until his death in 1985.
This pyramid could have been a warning of the pyramid schemes that destroyed the economy of Albania in 1997. Communism had ended, but the new market economy floundered and failed.
It was a disaster. Two-thirds of the population lost their life savings in Ponzi investment schemes that government officials had endorsed, and profited from.
Complete financial collapse caused violent protests and civil unrest. A million weapons were stolen from armories, 2,000 people were killed, masses of Albanians left the country.
That was in 1997, not so long ago.
There are still more Albanians living outside their country than the 2.8 million that live in it.
These days the main plaza in Tirana is a peaceful area covered in beautiful stone tiles from every part of the country, gorgeous and glimmering after a light rain.
It’s a modern capital city, pleasant and walkable with tree-lined sidewalks.
I couldn’t decide if the fashion was ahead of the west or a few decades behind. Marie wasn’t impressed.
The country has a Muslim majority but in reality is mostly secular. I saw only a few women in head scarves during our two weeks in Albania.
By the way, Albania declared itself the first atheist country in the world in 1967. All public displays of faith were officially banned.
The religion of all citizens was declared to be “Albanian”.
That was overturned in the ‘90s and now Catholicism, Islam, and Orthodox Christianity coexist peacefully.
We saw churches and mosques from them all.
There’s a thing called “thermal tourism” in Europe, but commercial development and the gods of profit haven’t yet found this gem near Përmet, Albania.
What a setting! The hot springs pool with blue-green water sits beside the prettiest stone bridge from the Middle Ages.
No ice cream stores, no souvenir vendors, no entrance fees. It was relaxing and natural and lovely.
We arrived by bike from our hotel and walked over the ancient bridge.
The eldest and bravest of our team chose to wade the stream. She’s everyone’s role model at a vibrant 85 years old.
Back in the mountains with the Nodge girls at a scenic rest stop.
One last chapter about Albania coming soon.
Then I’ll reload the Caboose with another topic, whatever comes my way.
Thanks for reading my private/public photo journal!
